Branch and Burrow
Branch and Burrow is a small, 50-acre regenerative farm on the outskirts of Braidwood in Jembaicumbene, run by Suz Worsly-Deacon, her husband Trent, and their sons, Ollie and Leo. They specialize in pasture-raised chicken, lamb, pork, and eggs, with a core focus on regenerative farming, permaculture, and sustainability.
Suz Worsly-Deacon
“We started this business because we wanted local meats for ourselves. I was a vegetarian before we started producing meat. Once I was pregnant, I really wanted to know where my food was coming from, and I wanted to know the grower. So, when we moved here, whatever we couldn't produce ourselves, we were buying off local small farmers. Then we started looking at what things weren't being produced in the area that we wanted to eat ourselves.”
“Once we wanted to introduce meat into our diet, we needed to look at how we could produce that ethically for our family”.
Branch and Burrow's core values revolve around regenerating the land, caring for animals, managing water sustainably, and fostering a strong local community. They prioritize connection with customers and other small producers, building a supportive network that has been crucial since their beginnings in Braidwood and Bungendore.
“Braidwood and Bungendore were the two places where we originally started selling our product, and the majority of those customers have stuck with us since we began. A lot of them have come out to the farm, visited, and spent time out there with us. They've also been a great support as we've changed and evolved along the way to being able to provide the produce that we do and try to work out exactly what our local community needs from us.”
“There is also strong and connected community of local growers. The interesting thing we found in Braidwood was that once we started discovering different small producers when we first moved here and wanted to buy food direct from growers, those people helped support us from the get-go. They've also passed on different things like educational opportunities, grant opportunities, and more. So, they not only buy our produce, but we buy produce off them too.”
“I feel like it becomes a little bit of a united force, like during drought or a lot of rainfall, and just checking in. It can be a bit of a lonely business other than being at the farmer's market. So, having that connection, and because we all grow in a similar climate and with the interesting climate that we have here in Braidwood, having that connection and understanding is really important. “
“I think there's a really amazing amount of different produce that is produced in the region, and so far, we've found that everyone's been very connected and supportive.”
The Chicken's Journey at Branch and Burrow
Their chickens arrive as day-old chicks from Queensland, unvaccinated and delivered directly to the farm. They start in a temperature-controlled brooder for three weeks, where they receive fresh water infused with oregano oil and apple cider vinegar to boost their immune systems during this vulnerable stage. Losses are minimal, typically one or two birds out of 300. The brooder environment gradually transitions them to outdoor conditions, including introducing grass. The nutrient-rich bedding from the brooder is composted and used as fertilizer on contour in their paddocks, enhancing soil health and water retention.
Chickens are moved outdoors at around three weeks and are processed for meat at eight weeks of age. This extended growth period, compared to the five or six weeks for commercial birds, results in superior flavour and darker meat. While older birds develop even more flavour, eight weeks is the sweet spot for a viable product size and cost. A new batch of chicks arrives every four weeks, ensuring a continuous cycle of production. They manage their land through crop rotation and allow paddocks to rest, supporting long-term soil health.
Branch and Burrow aims for sustainable growth, focusing on their environmental and community impact, and ensuring the business is sustainable for their family in the long term. A key future goal is to process animals on the farm, which currently faces significant regulatory hurdles, a hurdle that affects many small meat producers, and an area that could use significant reform.
The most unsustainable aspects of small farms such as Branch and Burrow are flying chicks from Queensland and transporting all animals to Sydney for processing. This lengthy journey impacts animal welfare, adds to fuel costs, and consumes valuable man-hours. Access to local processing facilities is the single biggest change Suz wishes for in the industry. She advocates for regulation that supports safe food but pushes back against overregulation based on large factory farm models, emphasizing the need to elevate ethical, small-scale food production.
The kids Ollie and Leo are deeply involved in farm life, developing their own strong opinions and passions. They observe farm practices with a critical eye, often questioning conventional methods, like the use of sprays, and demonstrating a clear understanding of the environmental impacts. Suz and Trent encourage their independent thought, valuing their developing perspectives on ethical farming.
Advice for New Farmers
For those considering small-scale regenerative farming, Suz advises:
Connect with what you truly love to produce, as it's a demanding business.
Educate yourself on proper animal care.
Start small and grow gradually to avoid mistakes and understand the land.
Create demand for your product before scaling up.
Build connections with other local farmers; most are willing to share knowledge.
Where to Find Their Produce
Products are sold via subscription and pre-order through their website, offering various pickup points including Braidwood Town (Arts in General or Farmers' Market), Southern Harvest Farmers Market at Bungendore, Sage at Moruya, Kiama Farmers' Market, and The Hague in Canberra. Several stores also stock their goods, such as Braidwood Arts in General, Sussex Greenhouse, Goulburn Organics, and Milton Farm Shop.
Find out more at bbfarm.com.au
Order online at branch-burrow.localline.ca/farmstorepreorder
Words: Rose Ricketson
Photos: Christopher Morris